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Head to Head
What is this?

Cordless Drill vs Impact Driver: Which Do You Actually Need?

★ Our Winner
RYOBI ONE+ 18V Cordless 1/2in Drill/Driver PCL206B (Tool Only)
Best Cordless Drill

RYOBI ONE+ 18V Cordless 1/2in Drill/Driver PCL206B (Tool Only)

The versatile option — drills holes and drives screws

Contender
RYOBI ONE+ 18V Cordless 1/4 in. Impact Driver - 1,800 in-lbs Torque, 0-3,400 IPM, Tool Only (Battery Not Included) - PCL235B
Our winner: Cordless Drill

Our verdict — Cordless Drill wins

For someone buying their first power tool, a cordless drill is the better starting point because it does everything an impact driver does — driving screws — plus things an impact driver cannot do at all, like drilling holes in wood, metal, or masonry. An impact driver is faster and more powerful for driving screws specifically, but if you own one tool, the drill covers more situations. If you already own a drill and do a lot of screwdriving — assembling furniture, building decking, fixing timber frames — an impact driver is the single best addition you can make to your kit.

Buy Cordless Drill if…

You are buying your first power tool, or you need something that both drills holes and drives screws.

Buy Impact Driver if…

You already own a drill and want to speed up screwdriving for timber work, decking, or any high-volume fixing job.

A drill does both jobs. An impact driver does one job faster.

Cordless Drill
vs
Impact Driver
✓ Yes
Drills holes
No (hex bits only)
Yes
Drives screws
✓ Faster, harder
✓ Adjustable
Clutch control
None
Bulkier
Size and weight
✓ Lighter, compact
Can cam-out
Long screws in hardwood
✓ Handles easily
✓ Covers ~90% of DIY
First tool value
~60% without a drill

Versatility — what each can do

A cordless drill accepts both round-shank and hex-shank bits. That means standard drill bits for wood, metal, masonry, and tiles — plus all screwdriving bits. One tool handles the full range of home DIY. The adjustable clutch protects delicate fixings, chipboard that strips easily, and hinge screws that need precision.

An impact driver accepts hex-shank bits only. Standard drill bits will not fit. It drives screws excellently but cannot drill holes. Buying an impact driver without a drill means you will need a second tool the first time you need to hang a shelf or fit a lock.

Screwdriving performance

When resistance builds up — a long screw halfway into hardwood — the impact driver's internal hammer mechanism fires rapid concussive rotational impacts, typically 2,000–3,000 per minute. It sinks a 100mm screw into hardwood without cam-out or stripped heads. A drill requires a steady hand and careful control to avoid the same result.

For high-volume screwdriving — decking boards, timber frames, garden structures — an impact driver gets through the work in roughly half the time with far less physical effort. It also drives more screws per battery charge because the impact mechanism is more efficient than continuous rotational torque.

Size, weight, and overhead work

Impact drivers are almost always lighter and more compact than equivalent drills. No clutch collar, no keyless chuck — the mechanism is simpler. For overhead work, driving screws into joists, or working in confined spaces, the smaller head and lighter body make a noticeable difference over a full day.

Cordless drills are bulkier by design. The chuck and clutch mechanism add both length and weight. For occasional use this is irrelevant. For a full day of screwdriving on a building project, the weight difference accumulates — particularly if you are working above shoulder height.

Which to buy first

If you own no power tools, buy the drill. It handles every screwdriving task an impact driver can (just slightly slower on very long screws) and also drills holes — which you will need to do. A drill without an impact driver covers about 90% of home DIY. An impact driver without a drill covers about 60%.

If you already own a drill and do significant screwdriving work — timber projects, decking, assembling garden structures — buy the impact driver next. It will immediately change how quickly you work. If you can stretch to a twin-pack on the same battery platform, most manufacturers sell drill-plus-impact-driver bundles for significantly less than two separate purchases.

Ready to buy? Check current prices below

Frequently Asked Questions

Can an impact driver drill holes at all?

Not effectively. Impact drivers accept hex-shank bits only, so standard round-shank twist drill bits will not fit. Some manufacturers sell hex-shank drill bits for impact drivers, but the impact mechanism is not designed for drilling. For any drilling task, use a drill.

Will an impact driver strip screws?

Less than a drill, not never. A drill can strip screw heads if the clutch is set too high. An impact driver is more forgiving because the impact mechanism engages gradually. Using the correct bit size and keeping it sharp matters with both tools.

Should I stick to one battery brand?

Yes. Battery platforms are not interchangeable between brands. If you buy a Makita drill, buy the Makita impact driver so both run on the same battery. The savings on shared batteries and one charger are significant over time.

Is a brushless motor worth the extra cost?

For regular use, yes. Brushless motors run cooler, last longer, and are more energy-efficient — more runtime per battery charge. For occasional home use, the difference is less critical. If you expect to use the tool frequently, brushless is worth paying for.

Does it matter whether I buy 18v or 12v?

For home DIY, 12v tools are lighter and sufficient for occasional use. 18v delivers more power for sustained work, long screws in hardwood, or drilling large holes. If you are building anything substantial or expect the tool to be used regularly, 18v is worth the extra weight.